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Rugged Workwear and ‘90s Americana: PHIPPS FW23/24

Here, clothes were exemplified by a dialogue between high and low elements: a knitted, billowing cardigan with conventionally-fashioned maxi prints was the most obvious example; a cropped blouse lined in a stripy pattern was another. True to form, PHIPPS augmented these contrasts with a tomboyish seam, where tailoring gained a gentle boxiness throughout showing louche precision. “We decided to hone in on the rugged workwear roots of the label, with a deep dive into the weird Americana and countercultural outsiders that are always at the heart of the brand,” opined Spencer Phipps, explaining that, “We studied iconic images from Richard Avedon’s Into the American West along with other artists exploring similar ideas including Kenneth Anger, David Lynch, Alec Soth and many more. We were looking to spin the iconography of the American West into a contemporary concept of future heritage, creating pieces that were both wildly unique but also somehow familiar.” 


The collection also accounted for a practical edge that favored items such as a cotton corduroy or an utilitarian shirt with industrial pocket closings and slightly shrunken proportions. All in all, PHIPPS’ clothes aren’t trend-heavy (the label is, after all, keen to serve a rugged, purpose-driven signature with a unique appreciation for craft and ethical responsibility), but such plainness demands an insightful eye. And don’t ask how Phipps achieves such effects—put it down to commercial mastery.

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