Sandy Liang Spring/Summer 2018

Her brand made with memorabilia— her Chinese grandmother-chic garments, fruit stand fabric... It is sweet, simple and subtle. Tradition is very trendy right now, as is Two Bridges. Dim Sum Dance Parties, classic Chinese silk and ancient symbols of Asia are trending— too often out of context, confused or caricaturized.

Leave Sandy Liang out of that— offering her own experiences in style she herself would want to wear.

Sentimentality is the center of this collection. Customs are updated and upbeat, girlhood garments grown-up, innate inspiration that allows everyone access. And true to her theme, sandy took the time to talk to office on the season of 'tradition trendy.'

Your references seem subtler this season. Your line was always influenced by Chinatown culture, and this year here are so many designers taking that as an influence this season, how do you feel about that?

The way I design, I can’t be “inspired” by anything unless it makes sense to me… Chinatown is inspiring to me is because my family is here, I grew up here, and I work here. I don’t get how somebody could reference that if it doesn’t mean anything to them except that it’s “in right now.”

I don’t like people making it into a trendy thing because for me… it’s just how I feel.

Also I see something different, in a lack of androgyny. It seems feminine.

...I’m always inspired by my family and childhood, and I don’t make references so obvious. Spongebob is literally where I got the flowers from. These things are like funny to me and they’re a source of happiness.

If you just throw duct tape and oversize everything, you just blend in. I’m not making clothes just to stand out either. I’m just doing what feels right to me, but what naturally feels right to me isn’t gonna look like everything else just because it’s tiring.

I’m so glad for your question about Chinatown because I care so deeply about that… I love that you asked me, and I love Simon and Office Mag.

Fashion

I am the makeup on your eyes

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears HAT by HELENA EISENHART, SHIRT by CD1974, EARRINGS by KARTHUR all c/o RETAIL PHARMACY, and BRACELET by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears NECKLACE by CHRIS HABANA, SCARF by ALEXANDER WANG, EARRINGS by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears JACKET by ALEXANDER WANG, SHIRT by BLONDITA SHOP, SKIRT by GOOD MANNERS, BOOTS by FERRAGAMO, JEWELRY by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears DRESS and BODYSUIT by RUI, BELT by HOLLYWOOD LOWBROW c/o RETAIL PHARMACY, BOOTS by FERRAGAMO

Fashion

Go-See Situation

Agnès is wearing a top from Peng Tai, a skirt from IRO Paris and boots from GmbH

Moli is wearing a top from Mengche Chiang, a dress from r . l . e with with tights from Wolford, ring from Julia Bartsch and shoes from empty behavior

Chloe is wearing a top from Acne Studios, pants from MM6 with a belt from Julia Bartsch, sunglasses from Uvex and shoes from Proenza Schouler

Glory is wearing a shirt from IRO Paris, pants from peng tai and shoes from Yume Yume

Timothée is wearing a shirt from Paloma Wool, pants from helios Emil and shoes from Yume Yume

Youssef is wearing a shirt from Dries Van Noten, pants, boots and underwear from GmbH, and a vintage hat

Fashion

The People of Lang

April 05, 2024

“The person gives meaning and value to the clothes and not the other way around,” said Peter Do of Helmut Lang SS24, his debut collection for the brand, which has finally hit the shelves.

It is an interesting, if not provocative choice — not only to ont put the garments primary, but to focus not on the “people,” as in a collective, but the “person,” as singular. It's a nod to what the brand has set out to establish since Do’s arrival, framing dressing as a system. It's a democratic formula which feeds off individuality and personal expression, relying upon character as opposed to custom. It’s a manifestation of personality, a farewell to performance. And it leaves us with one question, who is person enough to embody such a humble request?

By Vilda Krog
Photography by Huy Luoung
Styling by Jason Rider

The person in motion, the person of passion, the people passing by on the street who don’t care where you’re going, because they’re on a mission of their own. As Do crafts his garments, likewise do these individuals carve out their paths for themselves. No rules, no guidelines, and if there were — aren’t those meant to be broken? Suggestively, Do broke several rules once he interrogated assumptions around everyday dress back in September last year. Criticism came from more than one place at once. However, by staying true to his vision, he’s already beginning to see the fruits of his labor: his system of dressing, crystallized. It's subtly arrogant, yet widely accessible, dynamic, and utilitarian: it's a blazer, those striped trousers, that turtleneck top, and the traditional flattering denims. In other words, it's your carte blanche, thus let their personality be the color.

Who are they? The campaign, photographed by Huy Luoung and styled by Jason Rider, stars An-My Le, Armina Howanda Mussa, Ash Owens, Connor Sen Warnick, Devin B. Johnson, Eli Ping, Frederique Thiollet, John Yuyi, Kai Avent-Deleon, Linda Rodin, Michael Abel, Mindy Seu, Minjae Kim, Oscar Yi Hou, Sam Stewart, Sophia Roe, Steph Shiu, Yahdon Israel.

Usually, I’d hesitate to spell out more than four names, but in this case, perhaps we should consider them adjectives. Not at the expense of individuality. But rather, the definition of it.