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GCDS and Moschino Get Provocative

PRADA

For Fall 2024, Prada's luxe basics continued to flourish, coming to life with a lineup that added a slick of silliness to the house’s refined polish. This translated into pieces carved out around the body, peeled away to expose inner layers: Skirts created a façade of fabric, juxtaposing delicacy and strength, with tasteful fragile silks laid against tailoring wool — for added contrast.

MM6 Maison Margiela

Then again, contrasts like that have also been at the heart of MM6 Maison Margiela’s collections: for Fall, the collection struck a balance between sweetly prim shapes and sculptural ones, which felt as traditional as seasons past. Abstraction, ultimately, translated in a relentless play with length and width: there was plenty of color to be had, though it was the pieces with a minimalist palette that hit home the most.

Moschino

Add to that a cool dose of retro-driven sensuality and you gain a lineup that strikes a nice juxtaposition between the novel and the more timeless: a new, new challenge taken on by Adrian Appiolaza, newly-appointed Creative Director of Moschino who for Fall 2024 looked to craft, but also gestures and ideology, paying homage to the late Franco Moschino. The sensitivity of the collection was touching: logos of peace and love feel as relevant and timely in a time of social unrest. Timeless classics were pleasingly twisted, with a slightly provocative undertone that rose through: trenches and toppers were worn over body-morphing lingerie, embellished with clutched pearls — they brought forth the distinct lexicon that the Italian house has long been known for.

GCDS

Elsewhere, the tension between the hard and the soft is something Giuliano Calza plumbed in his outing for GCDS, casting soft-looking separates with oversized volumes to match. The starting point? “When I began devising this collection, I really wanted to do something fun and colorful, but then I didn't resonate with it,” Calza told office backstage post-show.  “So I chose another path, a tension that pushed me to be dramatic while maintaining a youthful vein: Going back to my childhood memories and the moments of laughter and pain, I wanted to depict the dualism of these emotional states,” he expands. Amid the dramatic offerings, there were tons of fuss-free proposals that were pleasing: ultra-cozy styles featured all-white coats with enough arm-room for layering, but clothes promptly got, well, sexier, further down the lineup. 

 

This collection was hardly an exercise in simplification, but there was a clear preference to strip things back and focus on clothes that matter and that people can wear, too.

 

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