At Silk Laundry, a Clean Slate Makes for Ethical Fashion

October 05, 2023

For a designer so invested in the look of unabashed practicality, Katie Kolodinski sure does wear her art on her sleeves—or at least, somewhere not far underneath it. The connotation dominating her practice is tinged by an ethically-minded ethos, which meets a luxurious, philanthropic feel to match. If that sounds a bit much, her fuss-free tenderness is a large part of her sustainable charm. “The increasing awareness of environmental issues and the fashion industry's role in them has been a driving force behind our commitment to sustainability,” opines Kolodinski, explaining how, at Silk Laundry, she recognizes the urgent need to shift towards more responsible practices. “This realization has led us to prioritize sustainable textile development in our supply chain, and I believe this is also true for many other brands. We believe that every brand has a responsibility to minimize its environmental footprint and promote conscious consumerism.” Kolodinski is a designer who treats fashion as a vehicle for conscious expression, and her garments epitomise a sweet concoction of Ukrainian roots and Canadian-meets-Australian cultural underpinnings. With a fuss-free balancing act, we took five with the designer and unpacked all-things creativity, technicalities and future hopes.

Interview by Chidozie Obasi
Photos courtesy of Silk Laundry

So first of all, how are you doing? How have you been?

I'm doing well, thanks for asking. I am currently in Amsterdam as I write to you. It's been quite an eventful few months. Over the summer I worked on a photoshoot in France, I visited my family in Thunder Bay, Canada, then joined the Silk Laundry team at Project 166 in Australia and I’ve just returned from my second trip to South Africa with my dear friend Chloe Buiting (Jungle Doctor) all while moving into a new home in Barcelona. It's been a whirlwind of activity, to say the least. Life has been busy, but I've relished every moment and thrive on these experiences. I must admit though, I'm looking forward to returning to my new home after Paris Fashion Week and embracing a more familiar and sustainable routine for a little while.

How has the last year been for you creatively? Has the war in Ukraine affected your design process or your creative energy in any way?

Russia's genocidal war has been quite consuming for me. I have so much fire and anger inside that needs to be cooled. For a while I felt completely numb which isn’t great creatively. I felt as if I had nothing left to give. Now, I am just angry, which is better than numb. While the war in Ukraine has been a heartbreaking and deeply concerning global event, it has fueled my commitment to using fashion as a platform for positive change and storytelling.

How have your Ukrainian roots, mixed with your Canadian and Australian heritage influenced your design?

My diverse background has a deep impact on my design philosophy. Being a family with Eastern European roots and background, we were never frivolous. Growing up in Canada where it was blisteringly cold, you dress for survival most of the year, not necessarily for pleasure. In Australia where I spent my latter 20 years, I was predominately in Queensland, where it is hot and humid. Putting on clothes gave me anxiety most mornings for ¾ of the year as I started to overheat as soon as I got out of the shower. Now, I design for myself, but that also means I dress and design for longevity. My history and living situations have given me a unique perspective, and I believe this fusion of backgrounds has contributed to the brand's distinct aesthetic.

You mention having a timeless edge and using natural fibers in your design ethos. What pushes you to navigate beyond trends?

The desire to create sustainable and timeless fashion has always been at the heart of Silk Laundry. I firmly believe that clothing should endure beyond fleeting trends. Our focus on natural fibres stems from a commitment to ethical and eco-friendly practices. These fibers not only offer comfort and quality, but also align with our dedication to conscious living. By being aware of trends yet prioritizing natural materials, we create pieces that stand the test of time and contribute to a more conscious fashion industry.

What are your hero pieces? And how would you unpack your creative identity?

One of our hero pieces is undoubtedly the 90s Silk Slip Dress, which remains a staple in all our collections. It epitomizes our commitment to classic design and the use of natural, luxurious silk. This piece has a unique ability to adapt to different body shapes and has been cherished by our community for its versatility.

Regarding my creative identity, it's deeply rooted in a passion for conscious living, sustainability, and storytelling. I view fashion as a canvas for expressing important messages and advocating for causes close to my heart. Through Silk Laundry, I’m creating pieces that not only make individuals feel good but also spark conversations and inspire positive change.

Congratulations on your traditional farming investment and Project 166. Can you talk us through the experience and your role in this project?

In 2022, my husband Reece and I purchased a 1200-acre plot of land that had suffered from degradation and desertification due to conventional farming and logging. This marked the beginning of Project 166, which has now become an official charity. Our main focus is on carbon sequestration and land regeneration, achieved through planting trees and restoring the native flora. The project is dedicated to offsetting carbon emissions. We’ve committed to plant trees on behalf of each person in our collective businesses, which currently comprises approximately 1000 staff. Our initial goal is to plant 166,000 trees, and we’re already on our way there. We've currently planted over 15,000 trees.

Project 166 is something my Silk Laundry team and I work on quietly in the background, while designing and selling clothing collections that inspire positive change. We’re extremely grateful to everyone who dedicates their time to this cause.

The desire to create sustainable and timeless fashion has always been at the heart of Silk Laundry. I firmly believe that clothing should endure beyond fleeting trends.

That leads nicely to the theory that has sparked increasing conversations in recent times, which sees a huge rise in sustainable textile development and sustainable ethics behind fashion. What do you think has instigated this necessity for the brand?

The increasing awareness of environmental issues and the fashion industry's role in them has been a driving force behind our commitment to sustainability. At Silk Laundry we recognize the urgent need to shift towards more responsible practices. This realization has led us to prioritize sustainable textile development in our supply chain, and I believe this is also true for many other brands. We believe that every brand has a responsibility to minimize its environmental footprint and promote conscious consumerism. Silk Laundry is dedicated to being a champion of sustainability within the fashion industry, and we strive to set an example for others to follow. Collectively, the industry demand for more sustainable options will create many opportunities for startups and suppliers to fill that demand.

It is so uplifting to see. So obviously more and more people are getting involved with greener fashion practices, but how did you personally get involved with it? Did you have any specific moments that ignited such interest?

My journey towards greener fashion practices began with a deep-seated love for nature and a desire to live consciously. Over the years, I've had the opportunity to explore various career paths and gain knowledge in various fields. These experiences, coupled with my passion for sustainable living, naturally led me to focus on sustainable fashion.

Growing up in Thunder Bay, Canada ignited my heart and love for nature. I spent most of my time outside in nature observing and in awe of animals, fish, flowers, trees and major seasonal changes like thunderstorms. The people who were closest to me were always outdoors. My grandfather grew a lot of his own food and would spend time outside in his hammock with his bird houses and little nests in his backyard. Growing up my dad would often take my sister and I fishing and camping where we would pitch a tent anywhere and fish for our dinner. My mother has the greenest thumb where a lot of her time was spent in the garden. I observed her love for animals as she would also foster, care for and adopt animals. Last but not least, in 1992 I saw the film Fern Gully, where I saw everything on earth as enchanted and needing our protection. I can’t deny the impact it had on me as a child, and I would highly recommend it to watch with you and your family.

It wasn’t grand moments or adventures that ignited a deep sense of responsibility to our planet, but the seemingly small and insignificant moments that set off a deep passion for our environment. As I learned more about the fashion industry's impact on the environment, I became increasingly committed to making a positive change through Silk Laundry.

On a more personal note, what is next for you?

I'm excited to continue my journey of learning and advocacy in the field of conservation. My experiences with Project 166 and my involvement in wildlife conservation efforts have deepened my commitment to protecting our planet. I'm also excited about exploring fresh creative possibilities at Silk Laundry, whether that involves collaborations supporting significant causes or showcasing the talents of local artisans and creators. Ultimately, my vision for the future is to create a more sustainable and conscious world through fashion and environmental initiatives. I want to leave a positive legacy for future generations, and I believe that fashion can be a powerful vehicle for positive change.

Fashion

Happy 424 Day!

Simon Rasmussen — What's going on?

Guillermo Andrade — Right now we're just setting everything up.

So, what are you doing, is it a party?

Well, I kind of felt universally forced, right? Because 4/24/24, I was just like, I don’t really have a choice here. The stars also just kind of aligned, so to be honest, I got this settlement that came with a bunch of clothes so I had this idea to give back to the kids who fuck with us by allowing them to buy our shit first. Not handing stuff out for free, but to do it in a way where we could skip the middleman of the industry, so to speak, and not allow clothes to disappear into the abyss of Farfetch or whatever else. So what we’re going to do is a sort of warehouse sale, which we’ve never done before so that was really exciting for me. I didn’t want to do just another warehouse sale, so it’s like a sample sale turns rager. We teamed up with Adidas and a couple of other sponsors, then drinks, DJs, and a performance.

Sick, I love it.

Yeah. My dream sample sale. Also, it’s not just hoodies and t-shirts here in there, it’s proper collections from the past three seasons. I’m also not picking and choosing, trying to make it accessible, like this was the only way I could afford to buy shit when I was a kid, bro. Sample sales were the thing I looked forward to the most.

I feel you. In New York, there's the annual CDG sale, which is when I used to cop all my CDG.

The only time I could afford Rick. I flew to New York once for a Rick sample sale and I was like, Wow, I can't believe I got invited. And it was mental. I still have those pieces. I will never sell them. Not even because I got 'em cheap. It was also just really fun. Even on the flight to New York, I was like, I can't believe I'm going to New York for a sample sale, what a fucking loser I am. But it was like the adult version of when I was a kid and I was like, Wow, I can't believe I'm 20-something and I'm still doing the thing I was doing in high school. So I hope we can create moments like that for kids here in LA.

Yeah. I love that. It’s important to connect with them; they’re essentially creating the brand. If you don't have them, good luck.

I mean, yeah. Fuck, bro. It's cool that we've been around for this long. I mean, it got a little rocky there for a second I think, for all of us. So coming out of it, tomorrow is a celebration. And it’s like an odd day of the week. It's a Wednesday, super random. And now that we've set it up, the homies are all like, Yo, I'm coming. I'm coming. Let me jump on stage, let me do this, and that's really what it's always been about. It's not some other strategy to get likes on the internet.

That’s how the best things happen, you just couldn’t help yourself. It was intuitive.

Yeah, it all came together in a really nice way.

Would you say that’s how 424 started as well? I remember we met in like 2010 on Fairfax and I was visiting with Rasmus…

Oh bro, it’s probably the time when I started the branch… do you remember Cecilia from Black Dakini? She’s the one that introduced me to CIFF and honestly, I didn’t even care what she was doing, I was just like, I’m coming, I’ll go with you. She said she’d give me half of her booth and I said, Awesome count me in. At the time, I had just gotten my green card and I wasn't allowed to ever leave America, so Copenhagen was one of the first cities I went to when I could finally travel. I mean, you see what we did at CIFF bro? It became our fucking hub for half a decade.

That was a moment for sure.

I remember the first account I got was Antonioli, and he came super gangster, being like, You're going to sell me these clothes. And I was like, bro, I didn't come to sell clothes. I'm just kind of catching a vibe with my homie and I made these things. And he's like, No, you're going to sell it to me. And then I was like, Oh my god that’s Claudio Antonioli. So then I went home, I googled wholesale, and figured that shit out. [laughs]

[Laughs]

Like you said, I couldn't help myself, but I didn't just make t-shirts and hoodies either. I was really on my Rick wave, so I made my version of the Rick things. It was that meets like The Boondock Saints, because I'm still a little bit of a Cali bro, sort of rock kid, but not really. I like hip-hop, but I like the way the rock stars look. I like the contrast. I thought it was cool. After that, I just never stopped.

It was clear to me when I first met you that you were onto your own thing in LA. It made a lot of sense, and it was so cool. It was before 424 was its own brand; you just had the store and this really cool curation.

It was all my shit, bro. I was very, very invested in sharing all of these things that I was finding from all over the world, like Astrid Anderson. She was one of those designers at the time, so important to 424. The connection to Copenhagen specifically for me was huge. I had a big fan base there. It was incredible. And then here in LA, we were sharing the things that we were a part of and finding; it was still the early days of Fear of God, Rhude, Martine Rose. A lot of these brands, we were the first store to ever sell it — we were selling Hood By Air on the West Coast.

You had Rick as well, I remember.

Oh yeah. It took me a long time. But I got Rick, bro. By the time I had to close the store on Fairfax, I already had a Raf Simons account. I had reached my ultimate dream. It was really all the stuff I wanted to wear at the time. It was dope. The best of the best.

We had an office magazine newsstand in there as well.

Oh yeah, we did! I came to visit the one you had, and I was like, Yo, I got to bring this whole fucking thing over here. But yeah, in LA, after two days people forget you exist, but everyone’s been super supportive. We’re all 10 years older now. We've been around forever at this point.

It can be dangerous to take those breaks when you’re figuring shit out, but there’s something very genuine to this comeback you’re having.

Thank you, thank you. We’ve been in and out of those fucking showrooms in Paris for long enough. I've been in and out of these factories for the past 10 years of my life. We had to figure something out. And I think now really diving in, being in Italy full time and being there to develop these products over time, I think that the whole thing just really shows the suppliers respect you more. The people who are making your goods understand why you're making them. And I think now I finally got to the place where I'm not making Italian things, I’m making my clothes, I'm making Cali-centric shit, but with that European technicality and execution. With this Fall / Winter collection, it clicked.

So what’s the vision for the next year? What are you manifesting?

I'm just fucking relentless, bro. This is the way I want to live my life. Now that we are more aligned, more prepared, and have more experience, moving forward it is just more of becoming a fully functioning company that can provide and create opportunities for all of the people around me. We’ve been operating just on instinct for a long time.

Sustaining a business is scary, trust me I know.

Scary as fuck, dog. I just opened a store next to Bottega, bro, and it’s like what am I even doing? You have to just believe in the thing you're doing more than anybody else.

100%, and it seems like that’s what you’re doing.

And fashion’s kind of a competitive sport, as much as people don’t think it is. We can reach a certain level without losing ourselves. My biggest ambition at the moment is to create something that, when you leave one of our neighbors you come into our place you don’t feel that the level has been sacrificed at all. And it’s not easy.

Definitely. I wish I could be there tomorrow.

Thank you, bro. 10 years now. You’ve always shown me so much love. We have to do a booth or have the office part of the next 424 day. Shit let’s do a 424 day in New York.

That would be sick. Let's do it. I'm here. Let’s catch up soon.

Next season’s right around the corner so I’ll see you in Paris.

Yes, see you in Paris and Happy 424 day!

Fashion

Luis De Javier's Puta Takeover

April 25, 2024

Last night with Luis De Javier, guests were overheard confirming this generation's most vital conundrum: “If I’m cunt, I can still be pussy.” “And if you’re pussy, you can still be cunt.” This sentiment echoed throughout the night as we celebrated De Javier’s first-ever streetwear collection, "Puta". We spent seven hours at Ella Funt at a dinner turned party that only he could’ve thrown (co-hosted by emcee). It was too dark for even the most aspiring-to-look-mysterious of us to wear sunglasses inside. Under the semi-oppressive flash of party photographers, we danced as much as the space would allow, drank tequila out of teacups and kissed each other on the cheeks with a vaguely European intimacy. “I’m doing streetwear!” De Javier could be heard exclaiming — whether it be in disbelief or excitement, we couldn’t tell you.

Words and photos by Izzy Capulong

The Spanish-born London-based designer has been well-loved for his genderless tailoring, latex mastery, and overall message of empowerment. Dressing everyone from ravers to A-listers, De Javier’s latest drop pushes his design repertoire to a new level. “While designing for my celebrity clientele and showcasing my creations on the runway has always been my dream,” he notes, “It’s equally important to me that my brand resonates with a wider, more diverse audience.” While this collection’s medium has shifted from corsets to sweatshirts, the classic LDJ avant-garde sensibilities remain. Bikinis and booty shorts are shamelessly emblazoned with “PUTA,” blazers are constructed with ample shoulder padding, and I had my eye on the cheekily-named “Faguette Bag.”

The Puta collection will be available exclusively on emcee.

Fashion

Nadia Lee Cohen Celebrates Paris Texas Launch at the Chateau

To celebrate the launch, Cohen and founder and creative director of Paris Texas, Annamaria Brivio hosted an intimate dinner at the Chateau Marmont pictured below. Arman Naféei entertained guests throughout the evening with a special playlist he curated for the occasion.